Cutting Machine:
Cutting machine is used for cutting out parts of articles from layers of cloth card webs or knitted fabric. During cutting, separate components of textile goods are cut out from the fabric spread in accordance with their shape and number determined by the marker. The cutting may be performed manually or automated way. The technically possible depth of cutting of the layer depends on the design of the cutting machine and on the thickness and properties of the fabrics. Cutting machines may be movable or stationary. The machine is shifted manually relative to the layer along lines drawn on the top card web. The development of apparel sector has led to the invention of various fabric cutting machines. Industrial cutters and cutting machines have led to better efficiency and precision in our work. The invention of these gadgets has reduced considerable efforts in the cutting process of different types of fabrics. Although there are different types of cutting machines used to cut fabrics and the most common type of cutting machines are given below:
Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machine:
According to the operating process, the fabric cutting machine can be classified into three types. Such as-
- Manual
- Semi- Automatic
- Automatic / Computerized
a) Manual Cutting Machine:
b) Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine:
Semi-automatic cutting machines to cut fabrics with differing properties may be divided in two groups according to whether their operation is movable or static.
- Straight Knife of Cutting Machine
- Round Knife Cutting Machine
- Band Knife Cutting Machine
- Die Cutting Machine
- Notcher Machine
- Drill Machine
1. Straight knife of Cutting Machine:
Straight-knife cutting machines are used to cut components of differing size. They are moved along the cut contours, while the fabric spread remains in a fixed position. The machines are manoeuvrable and capable of curvilinear cutting. Depending on their size and power, these machines can cut spreads of different heights and fabrics of different thickness. The maximum height of a cut spread is 300 mm. The weight of the machines varies between 5 and 20 kg. Heavier machines are less manoeuvrable. Small-capacity production units may use only straight-knife machines.
2. Round Knife Cutting Machine:
This machine is called round knife cutting machine because its cutter is round but slightly octagonal in shape. Round-knife machines are used to cut large- and medium-size components of simple shape from low-fabric spreads or to cut single articles from one or two material plies. This machine is small in size and flexible. The machine is moved along the cut contours, while the fabric spread remains in a fixed position. Round-knife machines are the most effective for cutting slippery materials as the rotary movement of the knife ensures the continuous compression of the fabric plies. Round-knife cutters are lighter (between 3 and 11 kg) than straight-knife machines and are therefore easier to move. It is also a popular cutting machine.
3. Band Knife Cutting Machine:
Band-knife machines provide the most accurate cutting and are therefore used in cutting small components of complex shape. The fabric plies are guided against the cutting device that is fixed and performs only a vertical movement down to the fabric. Because the band knife moves in only down direction, the friction between the knife and material ensures the continuous compression of fabric plies throughout the process. Band-knife machines may be used to cut fabric spreads up to 300 mm high.
4. Die Cutting Machine:
The die is a knife blade in the profile/shape of a pattern margin, including notches. Die cutting machine involves forcing a firm blade through a fabric lay. Free-standing dies normally have two categories. One kind is a strip steel, which cannot be sharpened and must be replaced when worn and another one is forged dies, which can be resharpened but the cost is five times higher than strip steel. The position of the tie bars, which hold the die, determines the depth of the cut. Free-standing gives higher accuracy of cutting and is used for cutting the small components of larger garments like collars and pockets.
5. Notcher Machine:
Notching is a cutting process, which has many advantages. A Notcher Machine is a versatile tool that helps in fabric cutting and shaping. The notches may be made on fabric spreads up to 250 mm in height. The weight of notching machines varies between 5 and 7 kg. Notcher is used to identify folding line, seam line etc.
6. Fabric Drilling Machine:
Special fabric drilling machines are used to make drill marks straight through ply spreads. These are made after the components have been cut by placing the drilling machine onto the component bundle. The marking drills are done by a rotating steel needle that is fixed to a stand on the machine. The machine may provide the additional option of heating the needle.
c) Computerized Cutting Machine:
Currently cutting of textile materials can be performed by automated cutting systems using different computer-controlled cutting devices. Automated knife cutting systems are most often used to manufacture garments. There are several companies which produce automated knife cutting systems for textiles: Gerber (USA), Lectra (France), Kuris (Germany), and others.
- Knife Cutting Machine
- Laser Cutting Machine
- Plasma cutting machine
- Water Jet Cutting Machine.
- Ultrasonic Cutting Machine.
1. Computer controlled knife cutting machine: This machine gives the most precise and accurate cutting at high speed. A characteristic computerized cutting system has nylon bristles at the top of the cutting table to support the fabric lay, which is flexible enough to allow penetration and movement of the blade through it. It also allows passage of air through the table to produce a vacuum for decreasing the lay height.
2. Laser cutting machine: Fabric laser cutting machine is specialized tools designed for the precise cutting of various fabrics. It offers high precision and cut quality at the highest cutting speed and acceleration.A laser produces a beam of light that could be focused into a very small point (0.25 mm) to produce high energy density and result in localized increase in temperature. In this system, cutting takes place by way of burning, melting and vaporization. The limited depth of fabric cutting (single or two plies) is the major drawback of this system.
3. Plasma cutting machine: The plasma cutting process was developed to satisfy a demand for high quality accurate cutting on stainless steel and aluminium; however, it could also be utilized to cut textile materials. In this system, cutting is accomplished through a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon). This machine has the potential to become the faster cutter of single plies, but the cutting method has similar issues as in laser cutting related to quality of cutting.
4. Water jet cutting machine: A high velocity, small diameter stream of water is generated by applying high pressure water to a nozzle. The high pressure water jet acts as a means to cut the fabric, tearing the fibers on impact. As the water jet penetrates succeeding plies in a spread, the energy decreases and cutting capability is also reduced. The water jet spreads out and the cutting point becomes wider at the bottom of the lay. There is a problem of water spotting, wet edges and inconsistent cutting quality.
5. Ultrasonic cutting machine: More currently advanced are cutting systems that use an ultrasonically driven knife blade. In this cutting system, vibration frequencies in the 20 kHz range are used to produce 1/20 mm movement in the blade, small enough to remove the need for a bristle base to the cutting table. Disposable knife blades save sharpening time and last for 10–14 days. Single ply and very low lays can be cut and low vacuum only is needed.
References:
- Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials (Second Edition) By I. Viļumsone-Nemes
- Garment Manufacturing Technology Edited by Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye
- Apparel Manufacturing Technology By T. Karthik, P. Ganesan and D. Gopalakrishnan
- Apparel Machinery and Equipments By R. Rathinamoorthy and R. Surjit
Editor of Fashion2Apparel. She is a fashion designer and ex-lecturer in Fashion Designing. She wants to spread fashion knowledge throughout the world.
