Spreading Process in Garment Industry
Fabric spreading is the preparatory process in the garment manufacturing industry for cutting and consists of laying plies of one cloth on top of the other in a predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides of the cloth (Figure 1). The composition of each spread, i.e. the number of plies of each color is obtained from the cut order plan. The quality of spreading directly impacts cutting accuracy, fabric utilization, and overall garment quality. At the starting of the spreading process, an underlay paper ply is laid on the table to ensure easy transfer of the spread along the table during the cutting process. The fabric spreading process is carried out by one/two workers at each side of the spreading table who move the fabric ply to the beginning of a spread. The end of the fabric ply is placed precisely at the beginning of the spread and secured. Returning to the initial position (the place where the fabric roll is fixed) one worker aligns the laid down fabric ply with the edge of the table and the previously spread fabric plies with a permitted variant of +/0.5 cm. The second worker smoothes the surface of the ply, ensures an even tension in the fabric and prevents creases or folds appearing during the spreading process. The spreading process is repeated until the desired number of fabric plies are laid down. Spreading process may be either manual or automated.
Objectives of the Spreading Process
Fabric spreading process serves several important objectives in garment manufacturing, ensuring the foundation for accurate cutting and high-quality garment production:
a) Shade Sorting of Fabric Rolls
Generally one spread requires more than one fabric roll; several rolls are necessary to produce the required order quantity. Hence there is a chance for roll-to-roll shade variation. A garment assembled from components cut from these different fabric rolls could exhibit a shade variation between its different panels. While spreading fabrics of more than one roll in a spread, they have to be separated by means of interleaving paper, which aids in easy identification and separation of the plies for bundling.
b) Ply Direction and Lay Stability
It is influenced by the type of fabric, shape of the pattern and the spreading equipment. For example, the fabric could be spread either face up or face-to-face manner for symmetrical patterns. On the other hand, the fabric can be spread only in face-up or face-down manner for asymmetrical patterns.
c) Alignment of Plies
Each ply of the spread must have the length and width of the marker and also the minimum possible extra outside those measurements especially in width due to the possibilities of width variation between fabric rolls as well as within the roll to a lesser extent. By considering this, generally the marker plan is created to the narrowest width of fabric. The excess fabric width could be dispersed outside the marker plan at the opposite end of an operator by aligning the fabric edges at the end or the fabric could be aligned centrally by distributing the extra width equally on both sides.
d) Correct Ply Tension
It is very crucial to spread the fabrics with adequate tension during spreading. Suppose if the fabric is spread with low tension, then the fabric will form ridges with irregular fullness. Conversely, if the fabric is spread with high tension, they will maintain their tension while held in the lay, however, it will contract after cutting or during sewing, leading to a smaller size of the garment component. The normally recommended methods for removing tension in the lay are relaxing the fabric overnight, beating the lay and positive fabric feed.
d) Elimination of Fabric Faults
A plastic tag is normally pasted on the fabric edge in line with the fault during fabric inspection. The fundamental ways of taking action to localized faults are make-through system, cut out at the lay and the sort and recut system.
- In the make-through system, the fabric faults are left in the garment as it is and it is inspected at the final stage of manufacturing. This option can be utilized when fabric faults are relatively lower and the market is available for ‘seconds’.
- Cutting out at the lay uses ‘splicing’ during spreading. In this method, the fabric is cut across the fabric ply at the point where the fault is located and overlays it as far back as the next splice mark, which is adequate to allow a complete garment panel rather than sections only to be cut.
- In the case of the sort and recut method, the fabric faults are marked with a strip of contrasting fabric; however, no action is taken at the spreading stage. After the cutting process is completed, the cut components are inspected for faults and the defective panels are recut from the remnant fabric. This is a cost-effective method and is particularly used when the cost of fabric is high, the garment pieces are large and the fault rate is high.
e) Elimination of Static Electricity, Fusion and Tight Selvedge in Cutting
- Static electricity can build up within a lay in the case of synthetic fibers particularly on dry days. In such circumstances, the spreading process will be more difficult.
- Cut edges of thermoplastic fiber fabrics could fuse together during cutting due to heat generation in the knife blade. Generally, anti-fusion paper comprising a lubricant could be used that lubricates the knife blade, therefore reducing the heat generation in the cutting knife.
- Tight selvedges generally lead to fullness in the central area of the spread. They can be corrected by cutting into the selvedge to release the tightness.
f) Fabric Control during Spreading
Preferably, each ply in the lay should be spread by superimposing the fabrics one above another with their ends aligned.
- Smoothing fabric: During spreading it is important to open out any unnecessary folds, and to avoid ‘bubbles’ caused by uneven tension in softer fabrics.
- Skewing: Skewing is a condition where the fabric is angled across the course.
- Bowing: Bowing is created when the cross-grain weft bends additionally down the table in the center of the fabric which is difficult to minimize.
g) Avoidance of Distortion in the Spread
Spreaders are vital to lay up the fabric without any tension. Therefore, the garment panels do not shrink after cutting. Normally, a glazed paper with its glossy side kept down is put at the top of the spreading table before spreading to avoid disturbance of lower plies of fabric while the base plate of a straight knife cutting equipment passes beneath it.
Spreading Equipment in Garment Industry
Generally, the spreading process can be done manually or by computer controlled machines. One or two person, based on the fabric type and width of fabric, type of spreading machine and size of spread, can be involved in the spreading process. In case of the manual spreading process, two persons are normally required except when the spread is too short. One person on each side of the spreading table could work during spreading to keep the fabric flat, smooth and tension-free. With the automatic spreading process, the equipment itself controls the fabric tension, fabric placement and rate of travel.
1. Spreading Table
Spreading normally requires a flat, smooth surface. Spreading and cutting tables are available in standard widths. A spreading table should be about 10″ wider than the fabric width (Figure 2). It may have rails fixed on the top of a spreading table to guide and control the spreader as it moves along the length of the table. With modern high speed spreading machines, all the drives are synchronized to control the fabric tension.
Specialized spreading tables are also available depending on the type of fabric and cutting. One kind of spreading has an option of a row of pins that are placed below the table surface and can be drawn-out above the table through slots for better gripping of fabric in an accurate position for getting an accurate pattern matching in case of repeats. Vacuum tables are also available to compress the lay and prevent sliding of plies during cutting.
The fabric can be spread on one table and then transferred to the cutting table. With the air flotation facility in spreading tables, a lay can be transported easily to the adjacent cutting table. A layer of air between the top of the table and the bottom layer of paper reduces friction and allows a lay to be moved easily. Spreading tables with a conveyor arrangement move the fabric from the spreading table to the cutting table with ease to minimize the handling and transportation time.
2. Solid Bar
Even though this method is apparently unsound, this kind of spreading by two workers is still used. There is no tension control in this type of spreading and hypothetically can be used for any mode of spreading.
3. Stationary Rack
This machine has basically two uprights fixed at the end of the table. A steel bar is passed through the fabric roll and two spreaders, one on each side of the table, pulls the fabric from one end of the table to the end of the spread length. After the fabric ply is aligned and weighted at the end, the spreaders then smooth out any ridges or wrinkles in the fabric and align the fabrics with respect to any one side of the fabric. These kinds of spreading are preferably used for F/O/W, N/O/W fabrics but are not suited for N/U/D modes of spreading.
4. Drop-In Unwinder
This equipment has a cradle with rollers that enclose the fabric roll. It is most commonly used when the tube in the fabric roll is crushed or too small for the steel bar in a stationary rack.
5. Rolling Rack
In the case of a rolling rack machine, it is understood that it rolls down the table length with the fabric roll kept on it. The entire arrangement sits on a rail mounted on both edges of the table and the wheels roll over it. Similar to other rolling machines, the wheels on the far side of the machine ride on the top of the opposite edge of the table. The rolling rack is preferably used for F/O/W, N/O/W, F/F and N/U/D spreading. This method has no tension control on the fabric, hence apart from smoothing out wrinkles and aligning the fabric edges, the spreader must cautiously unroll the fabric slightly ahead of the speed that the machine is advanced.
6. Turntable
It is another manually operated spreading machine. Similar to the rolling rack, it is manually pushed down the table, and there is no control over fabric tension like the rolling rack. Conversely, as the fabric roll is fixed on a rack that can easily be rotated, the turntable is ultimate for F/F, N/O/W, F/O/W and N/U/D modes of spreading.
7. Semi-Automatic Rolling Rack with Electric Eye and Catchers
Semi-automatic spreading machines are designed with electric eye edge sensors that use a servo-motor to move the rack side to side to align the fabric selvedge on the control side of the table. Moreover, for F/O/W, N/O/W spreading at one end, and for F/F, N/O/W spreading at both ends, a mechanical catcher device is used.
8. Automatic Rolling Rack
It has a drive motor and end switches that allow the machine to automatically drive itself from beginning to the end of the table and back. The machine can be fitted with an end cutter that would also automatically cut off the end for F/O/W, N/O/W spreading. The fundamental components in this machine consist of carriage, wheels travelling in guide rails at the top edge of the table, a fabric support and guide collars to aid the perfect unrolling of the fabric as shown in Figure 3. An advanced version of the spreading machines consists of a platform for the spreader to walk, a motor to drive the carriage, an automatic ply catcher and cutting device, a ply counting device, automatic ply alignment system using photoelectric sensors and alignment shifters, a turntable and a positive drive for the fabric support which is synchronized with the spreading speed to minimize the fabric tension during spreading.
9. Automatic Turntable
The common form of turntable has all the features of the automatic rolling rack, may use a cut-off knife mechanism, and is self-powered. It requires the spreader to manually rotate the fabric turntable rack when spreading F/F, N/O/W and F/O/W, and N/U/D modes of spreading. The fully automatic turntable spreader is also capable of rotating the fabric as well (Figure 4).
10. Tubular Knit Fabric Spreader
Tubular knit fabrics create an exceptional challenge during spreading. Since two fabric layers are being kept on the table from the roll concurrently, a frame is inserted inside the fabric tube to control both layers as they traverse along the machine and avoid folding of fabric. Positive feed roll arrangement minimizes the tension in the fabric during spreading.
Advancements in Spreading
Modern garment manufacturing has seen significant innovations in fabric spreading, aimed at improving efficiency, accuracy, and reducing material wastage. Key advancements include:
- Fabric defect marking sensors: In this system, a reflective label is normally fixed at the selvedge of the fabric during the fabric preinspection. Automatic spreading machines having this sensor detect the label as it crosses the electric edge control eye and stops the machine and allows spreader to trace the defect.
- Air flotation tables: The cutting tables having air jets fitted at the bottom of the table facilitates moving the entire spread down the table.
- Vacuum table: The vacuum is applied from the bottom of the table through small holes in the table after a polythene cover is spread over the top of the entire lay to compress the lay and stabilize it.
- Heavy roll loaders: It is used when roll weights surpass 200 lb per roll. It has the capacity to manage rolls weighing over 1200 lb and these are used to lift the fabric rolls from the floor to the spreading machine.
- Automated panel cutting systems: In this system, the fabric is pulled automatically from the roll by an exact measured distance and then is cut off squarely and accurately. These are used for cutting home textile products such as table cloths, mattress pads, sheets, napkins, bedding and curtains.
Conclusion
Fabric spreading is a foundational process in garment manufacturing, directly impacting production efficiency, material utilization, and product quality. It plays a decisive role in ensuring precision in garment cutting and overall production quality. Advancements in spreading not only improve operational productivity but also contribute to sustainable and waste-minimized garment manufacturing.
References
[1] Karthik, T., Ganesan, P., & Gopalakrishnan, D. (2016). Apparel Manufacturing Technology. In CRC Press eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1201/9781315367507
[2] Rathinamoorthy, R., & Surjit, R. (2015). Apparel Machinery and Equipments. In WPI Publishing eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1201/b18903
[3] Vilumsone-Nemes, I. (2018). Industrial cutting of textile materials. Woodhead Publishing.
[4] Garment Manufacturing Technology. (2015). In Elsevier eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1016/c2013-0-16494-x
Editor of Fashion2Apparel. She is a fashion designer and ex-lecturer in Fashion Designing. She wants to spread fashion knowledge throughout the world.
