Stitching process is the most important among the garment manufacturing processes. And this sewing work is done with the help of needle and thread. But the thread can be torn from the needle while sewing. If the yarn breaks repeatedly then it is a waste of time as well as it is very harmful for the production of garments. In today’s article we will know why the needle thread breaks and what are the remedies?
What is needle thread?
The most important material for sewing clothes is sewing thread. The thread by which clothes are sewn is called sewing thread. Sewing thread comes in different types, sizes and colors. Before sewing any type of garment, the yarn has to be selected. At the time of selection of yarn, especially the properties of yarn such as yarn strength, elasticity, shrinkage, yarn number etc. should be sewn and care should be taken so that the garment is not damaged due to sewing yarn. The quality of the garment also depends on determining the type of sewing thread used to make a particular garment.
Properties of sewing thread:
Different types of sewing thread need to be selected for different types of garment fabrics. If the sewing thread is not selected properly, the sewing quality will not be good. As a result, various types of defects are seen in the clothes. Therefore, the sewing thread has to be selected according to the fabric of the garment. So, all the qualities of sewing thread that have to be selected are discussed below:
a) Tensile strength: The amount of force required to tear a yarn is called tensile strength. It is considered to determine the difference in strength between yarns of the same size or ticket number.
b) Tenacity: Tenacity is obtained by dividing the tensile strength of the yarn by the count or thickness of the yarn.
c) Elasticity: Elongation when pulled and returning to its original length when released is called elasticity. Most sewing thread falls somewhere between elastic and plastic.
d) Shrinkage: Shrinkage is the extent to which a yarn shrinks from its original length when washed by heat or water. If the sewing thread is compressible, it will cause seam puckering.
e) Abrasion Resistance: It is very important to check the abrasion resistance of sewing thread. The friction resistance of one yarn with another yarn is considered in this case.
f) Color Fastness: In order to verify the quality of yarn, the fastness of color should be ensured.
Needle Thread Breakage Causes and Solutions:
Needle thread breakage due to various reasons during sewing operation. There, have mentioned some of the reasons below. While running the sewing machine, the upper thread and the lower thread should move equally. That is, the tension of this thread must be equal. If these two tensions are not equal, the yarn may break. This tension is controlled by the upper tension and the lower bobbin case. There is a small screw attached to the bobbin case that can use to increase the thread tension of the bobbin case. And on the left side of the machine there is tension. By wrapping it, one can increase the tension.
Another reason for frequent thread shedding in the sewing machine can be if the thread is not installed properly in the machine. Many times, due to ignorance, many people put the needle upside down, because of that, the thread gets torn. Many times the needle breaks again and again. So take care to insert the needle in the right way. One side of the needle is round but the other side is equal. The same side should be placed facing the machine. The thread can also be torn repeatedly due to old or poor quality thread.
So the yarn should be checked. If any loose part of the yarn is caught in the shuttle, the yarn may break again and again. If the upper thread tension is high, the thread may tear repeatedly. So be careful about that. If necessary, the tension should be loosened from the dial. If the thread is not put on the bobbin properly, the thread may break again and again. So see if the right thread is worn. And see if its tension is correct. Adjust the tension with a screwdriver if necessary. Look at the bobbin case below, and where to adjust its screw.
Another thing to note is that if a piece of thread is stuck in the bobbin case, the thread can be torn repeatedly. So open the bobbin case and check.
Ways to remove needle thread breakage:
- The thread guide should be positioned evenly at 2.5 times the height of the thread package. Care should be taken that the yarn package does not swing.
- A foam pad should be used at the base of the yarn package.
- The thread should be threaded more in the thread guide and the tension on the tensioning disk should be reduced.
- The check spring must be reduced.
- Better quality needles should be used.
- Oil supply must be ensured.
- Need to use needle lubricant and cooler.
- Distance between needle and hook should be checked.
- If the yarn is of poor quality, it should be changed.
Sewing thread is of immense importance for making garments. The external appearance and quality of the yarn is directly related this. The quality of the garment also depends on the type of sewing thread used to make a particular garment. So, if the thread is torn repeatedly, one has to face a lot of difficulties and also wastes a lot of time. Therefore, care should be taken not to tear it. And if torn, it should be determined by the above solution.
- Garments & Technology By Prof. M A Kashem
Author of This Article:
Dept. of Clothing and Textile
Govt. College of Applied Human Science, Dhaka
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Editor of Fashion2Apparel. She is a fashion designer and ex-lecturer in Fashion Designing. She wants to spread fashion knowledge throughout the world.