Marking and Tracing Techniques Used in Garment Making

Marking is the process of the construction symbols that are transferred from the pattern to the apparel section before cutting. It is generally used in marker making time. Transfer markings may be made on the face, inside or through garment section. Marking is a crucial step in the garment manufacturing process that involves transferring various important information, such as notches, darts, buttons, buttonholes, grainlines, and other design and construction details, onto the fabric.

Tracing is a technique of art, copying an object or drawing, especially with the use of translucent tracing paper. Tracing is a way of transferring design on the garment section. It is an essential step in the garment making process that involves in pattern making or templates on paper or fabric to guide the cutting and sewing of the final garment. Tracing ensures accurate and consistent reproduction of the design and allows for multiple copies of the pattern to be made.

Markings and tracings indicate the position of point of construction, design detail, grain lines and center lines. Pattern markings on fabric are guides for various means of fitting and sewing. It is not only use in clothing sector also use in bespoke tailoring for getting an actual measurement and fit garment. Different types of tracing and marking techniques are used in apparel industry. Which techniques are preferable for garment, it is mainly depends on the methods of tracings and transfer markings.

Tracing and marking on garments
Figure 1: Tracing and marking on garments

The method of tracings and transfer markings selection depends on:

  • Type and weight of fabric
  • Color of fabric
  • Placement of marking
  • Methods of construction
  • Methods of fitting
  • Methods of production

Types of Tracing and Marking Techniques of Garment:
There are six tracing and marking techniques are available for garment making. These are

  1. Chalked markings
  2. Chalked thread
  3. Color coding
  4. Pin markings
  5. Tailors tacks
  6. Thread tracing

1. Chalked markings:
This process is marking one or two fabric plies on the seam, style or detail lines with the use of tailors wax or chalk or a marking pencil over pin or pins positioned in the fabric. Marking is also made by tracing wheel and carbon paper.

Chalked marking
Figure 2: Chalked marking

2. Chalked thread:
Sewing thread impregnated with powdered chalk. To mark tightly woven goods and silk fabrics where other methods of tracing would damage the fabric.

Chalked thread
Figure 3: Chalked thread

3. Color coding:
To use of three different color threads to indicate thread tracing, basting, correcting lines after fitting the garments.

Color coding
Figure 4: Color coding

4. Pin markings:
A pin marking is a line of pins indicting a construction or grain line on a garments section.

Pin markings
Figure 5: Pin markings on garment

5. Tailors tacks:
Tailors tacks is a temporary small stitches of double thread, with loose un-knotted ends. This marking must be seen on both side of the fabric.

Tailor tacks
Figure 6: Tailor tacks

6. Thread tracing:
Thread tracing is a temporary line of alternating long and short hand stitches through a single layer of fabric. It is mainly used center front and center back folds of a garment and also uses to mark seams. darts, basting, sewing, fitting and other construction line.

Thread tacking
Figure 7: Thread tacking

Marking and tracing are integral steps in the garment making process that contribute to the accuracy, consistency, and successful construction of a garment. Tracing involves transferring the pattern onto the fabric or paper, ensuring that the design is replicated accurately. On the other hand, marking involves indicating important information such as notches, darts, buttons, buttonholes, grainlines, and other construction details on the fabric.

You may also like:

  1. Garment Pattern Making: Instruction, Construction and Principles
  2. Pattern Grading Methods in Apparel Industry

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